If you are wanting to get into the world of gel nails or even try your hand at doing your own gel mani at home, then this is the post for you! Whether you are already obsessed with a different form of manicure and are thinking of switching to gel, or just want to get all the details on the DIY route so you can skip the nail salon, we’ve got the info, tips, and tricks for you to make your decision.
Once you get all the details, all that’s left is to pick out your design and let those fingers shine!
Looking for nail art design ideas? Check out these posts for inspiration:
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What are gel nails?
Gel nails are a great way to get a shiny, chip-resistant manicure that lasts for a lot longer than a traditional manicure. The gel polish is made with a mix of acrylic monomers that quickly harden under a UV or LED light to create a coating that gives your mani longevity and is less prone to scuffs and chips.
How long do gel nails last?
Applied properly, gel polish manicures can last 2-4 weeks and still look good. You will, however, eventually have a grown-out crescent shape of nail bed showing at your cuticles as the manicure grows out over time, so people usually change their polish after 2-3 weeks.
Pros and cons of gel nails
While there are lots of options to choose from when it comes to what kind of manicure you get, here are some of the pros and cons of a gel nail polish:
PROS:
- Lasts for weeks without chipping
- Creates a stronger nail while the polish is applied
- Is possible to do at home with the right tools
- You can remove it at home with simple items
- Very shiny glass-like top coat that resists scuffs (unless you choose a matte coat)
- Very easy to use the polish to paint designs
- You can use gel extensions to increase nail length
- Has a wide variety of color options and textures (like adding chrome powder, etc.)
CONS:
- Is more expensive than traditional nail polish
- Requires a bit of a learning curve to do at home properly
- You can damage your nails trying to remove the polish yourself if done improperly
Gel nails vs. other manicure options
Gel vs. Powder Dip:
Gel polish is painted on your nails while powder dip nails are just what they sound like—nails are dipped into colored fine powder for each coat of color with the help of an activator coat layered between the coats of powder. You’ll use a base coat for both applications as well as a finishing topcoat for each, but the dip doesn’t require a UV or LED light to dry. Both manicures dry very hard and you have about the same level of manicure length, somewhere between 2-4 weeks. Dip nails tend to look thicker than gel nails because of the multiple layers of product, which can be a reason that some prefer gel. But that also makes the nails even stronger than gel while the polish is applied. Dip powder nails are also a very DIY friendly route to try at home and can also be soaked off with acetone or a powder dip remover. They are about the same as far as potential nail damage … as long as they are being applied and removed properly, there should be none-to-minimal nail damage over time.
Gel vs. Acrylics:
Gel nails use a polish that is directly painted onto the natural nail surface, while acrylic nails use powder and liquids to sculpt and adhere extended nails onto the nail surface. Gel polish is used over acrylic nails to color the nail. Acrylics look visually thicker than gel nails and are also generally more strong and durable. Gel polish manicures can be done at home while acrylics are best left to professions. While you can remove gel at home, you’ll need a professional to file off acrylics nails, which can weaken your natural nails over time. Acrylics are a more high-maintenance process, although better for getting extra length to your nails, and they are usually more expensive than gel manicures (and you can also achieve nail extensions through gel extension process).
Gel vs. Regular Polish:
While both can be done at home, regular nail polish is the easiest and fastest polish to remove with generally no damage to the natural nail while gel polish requires more time and steps to remove. Traditional polish also doesn’t require a light to cure (although you can buy a dryer to help the polish air-dry faster), making it the most DIY friendly. Like gel, you can use a base and top coat with regular polish to help it last longer, but most regular manicures start to chip within days and are usually refreshed weekly for the best look.
Gel vs. Shellac:
Shellac and gel have similar chemical formations, so they are almost like sister products. Shellac is more like a cross between gel and regular nail polish as you need a UV or LED light to cure the polish (along with a base, color, and top coat), but the main difference is that it’s easier to remove than gel, so it’s also good for a DIY application. Shellac nails also only lasts about 1-2 weeks, so it’s not as durable as gel, and there aren’t as many color shade choices since CND is the main brand that uses the technology.
What is soft gel vs. hard gel?
The difference between “soft” and “hard” gel is that soft gels can be soaked off with acetone and hard gels need to be filed off to be removed. Hard gels are also better for creating extensions and adding length, shape, and strength to natural nails. Soft gel is more flexible, so it’s less prone to breaking, and is more DIY friendly as hard gels generally require a professional to apply and remove.
Cost of a gel manicure and removal
While prices vary, it generally costs between $35-$60 to have a gel manicure applied (less if the manicure is just a color and more if there are designs, French tips, or chrome coats added). Removal of a gel manicure is usually around $10-$20, but if you are changing to a new gel color at a salon then you can buy a package that includes the removal as well as adding a fresh new gel manicure on top.
How often can you get gel manicures?
Generally it’s recommended to wait 2-3 weeks between gel manicures to give your nails a chance to rest as the removal and application process can weaken your nails if done too often. Check your nails for signs of:
White marks: Small white marks on your nails can mean the nails are stressed from the gel process.
Weak or easily broken nails: Your nails are bending or breaking in areas when they aren’t usually that weak.
Dryness: Extreme dryness around the nails or on the nail itself can be a warning sign.
Changes in color: Any change in your natural nail’s color can be a sign of nail stress.
If you notice any of these changes in your nails, it’s best to take a break from gel polish (or even regular polish) until the issues resolve or grow out.
Are gel manicures safe?
As long as the polish is being applied and cured properly, gel manicures are considered safe. If layers aren’t properly cured or the nail plate fully sanitized, the polish can remain tacky and trap moisture, which can lead to bacterial growth and fungi. Gel nail polish on the skin can also lead to allergic reactions over time because of certain ingredients, so you’ll want to ensure any excess nail polish touching the skin is wiped off with a brush dipped in alcohol before curing.
As far as the UV or LED light goes, since the exposure time is minimal, the amount of light emitted during a gel manicure is considered safe (it’s about the same as walking to the mailbox and back outside). Clients can always take the extra step of wearing sunscreen on their hands, or using UV blocking gloves to also keep skin protected from the light.
How can I do my own gel nails at home?
To apply gel polish at home, you’ll need:
- LED lamp or UV Lamp*
- Stainless steel nail clippers
- Nail file and buffer
- Cuticle oil
- Orange wood nail sticks or stainless steel cuticle pusher or glass manicure stick
- Isopropyl alcohol (and small brush for mistakes)
- Lint-free cotton rounds
- UV gloves
- Gel base coat
- Gel top coat
- Gel polish colors
You can also get a gel polish kit like this that has several components sold together.
1. Prep Your Nails: Use a nail clipper and nail file to trim and shape your bare nails to your desired shape and length (see this manicure post for more on nail shape options and home manicure tips).
2. Push Back Cuticles: Use an orange wood nail stick, cuticle pusher, or glass manicure stick to push back your cuticles (and nip any hangnails with a sharp and clean pair of nippers). While some people prefer the look of cut cuticles, the cuticle skin acts as a barrier to protect your skin from bacteria and infection, so we recommend leaving the skin there and just gently pushing back the cuticles a bit with a cuticle pusher.
3. Buff Your Natural Nails: It’s always a good idea to buff your nails so that the surface is smooth and uniform as that will help the polish grab onto your nail better and prevent premature peeling (and make sure to buff off any debris left near your cuticles from pushing them back).
4. Sanitize Your Nails: To clean your nails and make sure no bacteria is trapped until the gel, use at least 70% alcohol on a lint-free cotton round or pad to wipe over each nail plate. The alcohol will quickly dry and using a lint-free pad ensures no loose fibers will get stuck to your nails and end up ruining your wet polish.
5. Add Your Base Coat: Working one hand at a time, paint a thin even layer of your clear base coat onto your nails, being careful not to touch your skin or cuticles. The goal is to get as close as possible without actually touching the skin as this can lead to allergic reactions over time. If you do get any gel base, color, or top coat on your skin, dip a small nail brush in alcohol and wipe off the excess gel before curing.
Check your base coverage in good lighting to make sure each nail is fully covered as any gap in coverage will lead to an uneven color coat on the next step. Cure under your base coat under your light for the amount of time your UV or LED light states in the manual (different lights call for different amounts of time). Repeat with your second hand.
6. Add Your Color Coat: Paint a thin even layer of your first color coat on each nail (working one hand at a time), checking that the coverage is smooth and not touching the skin. If you make a mistake, you can try and smooth it out with a few extra strokes of the brush since gel stays wet until you cure it, and if you get fuzz or lint on a wet nail, it’s a good idea to have a pair of tweezers nearby so you can pick it off and smooth it if needed before curing.
Cure your color coat in your light for the amount of time your UV or LED light states in the manual (usually 1-3 minutes). Repeat with second hand and then do as many coats needed to achieve your desired look.
7. Add Your Top Coat: To keep your manicure shiny and glossy, finish off your layers with a thin top coat layer that is also even and not touching the skin. To prevent chips, you’ll also want to run the brush along the free edge of your nail to “cap” the front of the nail. While you can also finish with a matte top coat for a matte-look nail, the matte coat, while still durable, doesn’t wear as well over time and will eventually show scuffs more than a glossy top coat.
Cure each hand one at a time in your light for the amount of time your UV or LED light states in the manual (usually 1-3 minutes). The manicure will be dry to the touch as soon as this top coat is cured.
8. Finish With Cuticle Oil: To keep your hands and cuticles nourished, finish your gel manicure by massaging cuticle oil into your fingers and hands and allow it to fully soak in to moisturize.
To lengthen your manicure, wear gloves when doing the dishes in hot water and avoid long exposures to water as this can quicken peeling or lifting.
TIP: If you make a mistake with your gel polish, you can use a lint-free wipe with alcohol to wipe off the gel and start that layer again if you haven’t cured it yet!
How do you remove gel polish at home?
Gel polish removal at home takes a little time but uses simple tools. All you need to create your acetone soak process is:
- A nail scraper tool or angled orange wood nail sticks
- Pure acetone
- Nail file and buffer
- Cotton pads or rounds
- Aluminum foil strips or foils with the acetone pad already included
- Cuticle oil or petroleum jelly
- Nail clips (optional)
1. File Off Your Top Coat: To help the acetone penetrate the lower layers of your gel manicure, you’ll want to use a nail file to file off the top coat shiny layer of your gel manicure.
2. Wrap Your Nails: Using a small glass bowl, soak cotton balls/rounds in 100% pure acetone and rip into pieces that just fit on top of your nail bed. Tear 10 pieces of aluminum foil into rectangles about 2″ x 5″. Wrap the foil strips around the soaked cotton ball and fold down the tip over your finger to keep the cotton ball in place (or you can use nail clips to keep the cotton ball secure).
Note: To protect your skin from the acetone, you can also slather your cuticles and nearby skin in cuticle oil or petroleum jelly before adding the soaked cotton ball and wrap to act as a barrier from the harsh acetone.
3. Wait 15-20 Minutes: Let the acetone sit on your nails for 15-20 minutes and then check one nail at a time. The more coats of polish you have , the longer it will take to penetrate through all the layers.
4. Push Off the Polish: The gel polish should look wrinkly and loose when you take off the foil and cotton ball, so gently push and scrape it off the nails with an angled orange wood stick or a nail scraper tool (be careful with the nail scraping tool as digging in too hard can create gouges in the nail surface).
5. Soak Longer If Needed: If you feel like you really have to push hard to remove a spot, let it be and reapply the cotton ball and foil for another 5-10 minutes and check again to see if it can be easily removed.
You really want the gel to come off on its own, so if you’re putting in a lot of effort that means it needs to soak longer.
6. Buff and Oil Your Nails: To finish, buff your nails until they feel smooth and add cuticle oil to your nails, cuticles, and hands to combat the drying nature of the acetone.
TIP: Never pick at peeling gel polish. If your nail polish starts to peel or chip off, either file down what is loose or just go ahead and start the proper removal process. Pulling off attached gel polish will damage your natural nails.
What’s the difference between UV and LED lamps?
UV lamps emit ultraviolet radiation, which is the same thing that the sun and tanning beds emit. The energy of this light system needs to be calibrated to the exact specifications of the gel system you are using to result in optimal polish hardening.
LED light stands for “light emitting diodes,” which emit light that is both visible and invisible and is faster at curing gel polish than UV light. Many LED lights also emit some light from the UV spectrum as well, which is why you’ll see curing lamps that say both on the packaging.
UV lamps take 2-3 minutes to cure a coat of gel polish while LED lamps take 30-60 seconds, which makes the overall manicure time shorter. UV lamps require the bulbs to be changed more frequently, while LED lights last a lot longer.
Both lamps are generally considered safe but LED has the bonuses of curing polish faster and needing less bulbs replaced over time.
LED/UV Nail Lamp
Loved this post! I love Kokoist and all of their resources for learning how to do gel at home.
This answered a lot of my questions!
Do you know doonails? I don’t know if you get them on amazon, but very cool and under 10 minutes to make it. The gel nail pads can be used again, so even ecological. Best Regards from Switzerland,
Laura
Man this is thorough ! Thank you for a very informative read.
Great info!
Yesssss, such a great round up of info!
Such great information!